The Temples of Ra-Herakhte and Hathor
( Abu Simbel)

2005 Update: Note that you are no longer permitted to photograph or video inside the Temples of Abu Simbel. The security forces are very observant and keen so please don't try it ! Good quality photographs are available from your guide at a reasonable price.

Today was my wife's special birthday - and the trip she had been looking forward to for months. A visit to Abu Simbel. Abu Simbel is 280km south of Aswan and to get to Abu Simbel there are two options: by road or by air. The road option takes 4 hours each way through the desert and coaches are escorted by armed soldiers. The only option offered by Thomson's is by air at a cost of £115 each, which seems expensive - until you get there. We flew from Aswan Airport, which is clean and modern, much more pleasant than Luxor. The aircraft was a Boeing 737 and the captain advised us it would take 33 minutes and 33 seconds ... and it did ! The departure time didn't seem to matter as there didn't seem to be a timetable. The plane was purely for the tourists so it would go when it went, so we just sat back and relaxed. The flight took us over Lake Nasser which was created when the Aswan Dam was built. A short 20 minute drive in a coach and we were at Abu Simbel. Don't leave anything on the coach as you may not have the same one coming back ! From the coach park, it's a 10 minute walk through - yes you guessed it - the tourist trap to the two temples, !

So, what's different about Abu Simbel and Nefertari's Temple. Well, they should be under Lake Nasser ! However, when the Aswan Dam was being built, a huge international effort dismantled the temples and then reassembled them on a man made mountain, and you can't see the join ! I was a bit sceptical at first, as it seemed a bit of a cheat to me, but at least the archaeology had been preserved. The temple now sits 60 metres above its original site. Engineers manually cut the temple into blocks of stone weighing as much as 15 tons. The temple sits on a massive concrete dome which can be visited - unfortunately, we spent so much time in the temple itself, we missed out on this which is a pity. You can get a video of the whole project either on the boat or at the airport for about 120LE (£24) and although the quality is a bit poor, the content is good.

Finally, a word of warning here - it's very hot so take plenty of water and sun lotion as one of our party fainted in the heat as there isn't much shade around so do be careful, especially when you are listening to your guide. Note that your guide is not allowed to lecture inside the temples. There are also photographers around who will take your photo and have it ready for you by the time you return to the coach.

	Abu Simbel. The Temple of Re-Herakhte, with four great statues of Ramses II with his children at his feet. These statues are 20m high and Ramses can be seen wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. This temple used to dominate the landscape in its original location and acted as a warning to unruly Nubians of just how great was the might of Egypt.
The Temple of Re-Herakhte at Abu Simbel

The photograph does not do this monument justice. To see the temple carved into the rock face is incredible. The engineering effort which went in to saving this temple is also amazing and it is a credit that the importance was realised and an international effort initiated to move the temple to safety so that all the world can visit its splendour.

When you enter the Temple of Ra-Herakhte you are met with magnificent figures of Ramses on either side. From this photograph, it is difficult to imagine the size of these figures, but if you are stood at the side of one, your head will still be below his knees ! Again Ramses can be seen wearing the double crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. You can also see the original colouring on the ceiling of the temple. Also in the temple, Ramses and his wife Nefertari are shown before the boats of Amun and Ra-Herakhte. The temple depicts Ramses as conqueror, hero and god. There are over 1100 figures and every wall is covered with engravings relating to the Eyptian army, his successes and the flight of the vanquished. The temple extends 55 metres into the man-made mountain on which it now stands and its reconstruction is so accurate that every year on 22nd February and 22 October, the rays of the sun enter the temple and shine on the cult statues in the sanctuary - only one day later than the original !

Figure of Ramses II

	This carving depicts Ramses at the Battle of Kadesh where the Egyptians came very close to defeat by the Hittites. The opposite wall shows a victorious Ramses storming a fortress and conquering the the Hittites. These wall carvings are illuminated with artificial light so it is possible to take photographs without flash if you have fast film [see update above !].
Wall carving inside Ra-Herakhte at Abu Simbel

The smaller Temple of Hathor, situated to the right of Ramses' temple at Abu Simbel. Note the six statues of Ramses and Nefertari - Ramses is the taller. The pharaoh is always depicted as being taller than his wife, even though physically, he may not have been. This temple allows Nefertari to identify herself with Hathor, the nurse of Horus with whom Ramses identifies himself in the Temple of Ra-Herakhte

The Temple of Hathor at Abu Simbel

	The interior of the Temple of Hathor, showing the image of Hathor on the columns of the hypostyle hall. Although smaller than Ra-Herakhte, it is still beautifully decorated throughout with images and carvings. Nefertari was Ramses' favourite wife and he decorated the facade of the temple with statues of her, himself and his children.
Inside the Temple of Hathor at Abu Simbel

Reluctantly, we left Abu Simbel after a stay of about two and a half hours. You could quite easily stay here all day and still not take in all the carvings, figures and decorations. It was back up the path, through the tourist trap, stopping to buy a scarf and some Egyptian shawls and back to the airport. On the return flight (33 minutes and 33 seconds again !) cold soft drinks and biscuits were served. The cost of the trip did concern me, but I felt it was money well spent after being there. Certainly after flying over the desert and Lake Nasser, I would not have liked to do it in a coach.

As this was Easter Sunday, the chef had laid on a special evening meal which comprised smoke salmon on toast, cream of mushroom soup, sea food pancake, presidential sorbet, beef medallion with roquefort sauce, potatoes william, garniture pastorale and omelette surprise. Unfortunately, the boat was now sailing back along the Nile, towards Luxor.